If your house is at all like mine, the grill is fired up often on these luxuriously long summer evenings. A waning fire, after you've finished grilling a steak, or some chicken or fish, is perfect for grilling the avocado and onions. The avocado will give the dressing a custardy consistency similar to Caesar dressing. Use the dressing for any kind of salad you can dream up, from greens to grains. You can also sauce fresh or grilled vegetables and fruits, and grilled meats and fish.

Makes About 1 cup

• 1 avocado
• 1 red onion, halved, peeled, 1/2" thick slices
• 5 ounces sesame oil
• Juice of 1 lime
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• 2 teaspoons soy sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon Sriracha or Sambal Olek
• Sea or kosher salt to taste

1. Measure the sesame oil in a liquid measuring cup. Use a pastry brush dipped in it to gently oil the cut sides of both halves of the avocado, as well as both sides of the onion slices. The remainder of the oil (about 4 ounces) will go into the dressing. Sprinkle avocado halves and onions with salt and pepper. Use tongs to handle them. Lay the avocados cut side down on the grate over the fire. Lay the onions on the grate. You're not trying to cook any of them; rather, you're going for some gentle charring and most of all, smoking. Grill with the top open for 4 minutes. Carefully turn the onions over - don't worry if a few curls fall into the fire because they'll contribute to the smoky flavor. Close the lid and, if using charcoal, damp down both the top and bottom drafts. Not all the way - close them by about 3/4. You should see bright, white smoke drifting from the top. Smoke for 4 minutes. Now open the top, remove the avocados and onions to a plate or baking sheet and take them inside to cool slightly, though honestly, they won't be all that hot.
2. To prepare the dressing, scoop the fruit from both halves of the smoked avocado into the bowl of a food processor or into a blender. Roughly dice the onions and add them. Next, add the sesame oil, lime juice, fish sauce, rice vinegar, soy sauce, and Sriracha or Sambal Olek. Purée until smooth. Be sure to taste the dressing before adding salt; the fish sauce and soy sauce may have contributed enough. Add some grinds of pepper, and adjust the Sriracha or Sambal Olek as you choose.